Why This Ingredient Is Everywhere (except here!)
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate is one of the most widely used cleansing agents in personal care. It belongs to a group of ingredients known as surfactants, which are responsible for lifting oil, dirt, and debris from the skin so they can be rinsed away with water.
Its widespread use is not accidental. Sodium Lauryl Sulphate is effective, predictable, inexpensive, and easy to formulate with. It creates a strong foam, which has long been associated with cleanliness, and it performs reliably across a wide range of products including facial cleansers, body washes, shampoos, and hand soaps.
As outlined in dermatological literature, the evolution of modern cleansing has prioritised convenience, sensory experience, and oil removal. Over time, this has positioned strong surfactants like Sodium Lauryl Sulphate as industry standards, even though cleansing needs vary significantly between individuals and skin types.
The industry norm being examined here is the assumption that stronger cleansing and more foam automatically equate to better skin outcomes.
The Claim Under the Microscope
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate is often framed in extremes. On one side, it is defended as a safe and approved ingredient. On the other, it is portrayed as something to avoid entirely.
Marketing language frequently reinforces this binary thinking. Phrases such as “deep cleansing,” “powerful removal of oil,” or, conversely, “sulphate-free” as a shorthand for gentleness, oversimplify a much more complex reality.
There is no universal legal or scientific definition that equates the presence of Sodium Lauryl Sulphate with either harm or suitability. Approval for use does not automatically mean an ingredient is appropriate for every skin type, every formulation, or every frequency of use.
This is where much of the confusion begins.
What the Science Actually Studies
When Sodium Lauryl Sulphate is studied in dermatological research, it is often examined for its potential to disrupt the skin barrier and cause irritation. Many studies focus on short-term exposure, controlled concentrations, and predictable outcomes.
The paper CLEANSERS AND THEIR ROLE IN VARIOUS DERMATOLOGICAL DISORDERS by The Mukhopadhyay highlights that surfactants interact with the skin by binding to proteins and lipids in the outermost layer of the skin. This interaction can influence barrier integrity, depending on factors such as surfactant type, concentration, and contact time.
Importantly, research often evaluates surfactants either in isolation or under conditions designed to observe irritation thresholds. These study designs are useful for understanding mechanisms, but they do not always reflect how finished products are formulated or how people use cleansers in daily life.
Evidence suggests that irritation potential is not inherent to a single ingredient alone, but is shaped by formulation and use patterns.
Let's Put It Into Context
What is frequently left out of consumer conversations is that cleansing outcomes are cumulative.
The Mukhopadhyay paper emphasises that irritation and dryness are influenced by multiple variables working together. These include how often a cleanser is used, how thoroughly it is rinsed off, whether it leaves residue on the skin, and whether the formulation includes emollients or humectants that help counterbalance oil removal.
Skin condition also plays a significant role. Skin that is already dry, sensitive, over-exfoliated, or compromised has a lower tolerance for aggressive cleansing. In these cases, even approved and widely used surfactants may contribute to discomfort over time.
This context helps explain why some people tolerate Sodium Lauryl Sulphate without issue, while others experience dryness or reactivity.
When This Ingredient Makes Sense
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate can be appropriate in certain situations.
For individuals with resilient skin, occasional use in rinse-off products may not pose a problem. It may also be suitable where strong oil removal is required, such as removing heavy soiling or product buildup.
In formulations designed for infrequent use, or where contact time with the skin is very short, its cleansing efficiency can be beneficial.
When to Be Cautious
Caution is more relevant when Sodium Lauryl Sulphate is used frequently or across multiple products in a daily routine.
The Mukhopadhyay paper notes that repeated exposure to strong surfactants can increase dryness, tightness, and irritation, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin, atopic tendencies, or compromised barrier function.
Signs that a cleanser may not be suitable include persistent tightness after washing, increased sensitivity, flaking, or redness. These are not indicators of toxicity, but signals that the skin barrier may be under strain.
How We Approach This Ingredient Differently
Our formulation philosophy prioritises long-term skin barrier health over immediate sensory feedback.
Rather than focusing on foam or cleansing intensity, we consider how a product performs with repeated use over time. This includes how it interacts with the skin barrier, how easily it rinses away, and whether it supports skin comfort beyond the moment of cleansing.
This approach reflects the broader dermatological understanding that effective cleansing should remove what the skin does not need, without compromising what it does.
How to Read the Label Like an Expert
When reading an ingredient list, the position of Sodium Lauryl Sulphate can offer useful clues. Ingredients listed closer to the top are generally present in higher concentrations.
However, ingredient lists do not tell the full story. They do not reveal surfactant combinations, buffering ingredients, or how the product behaves once it is on the skin.
Rather than focusing on single ingredients, it is more helpful to consider the cleanser as a whole. Ask how often you will use it, how your skin feels after rinsing, and whether it supports your skin over time.
But... Can You Eat It?
At OmMade Organic Skincare, we do not use Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, and we never will. This choice is guided by our core philosophy that if you cannot eat it, it does not belong on your skin. We formulate with the understanding that skin is a living, absorbing organ, not a barrier to be challenged. Our focus is on ingredients that are recognisable, purposeful, and supportive of the skin’s natural function over time. Every ingredient we use must make sense not just from a regulatory perspective, but from a whole-body, long-term health perspective as well.


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